(See what I am saying?): Nashville, Tennessee.

August 02, 2004

Nashville, Tennessee.

"fuck nashville."

he was leaning into my left ear and perched on the bar stool in such a way that it looked like he was about to melt off the bar into a puddle of warm beer and dust on the dirty tiled floor. he smelled like he already had.

i had been in town long enough to park my car across the street and stop by hatch show print. when they closed, we walked up the street and in the door onto the barstools. around me 4 decades of country music was yellowing and stained and falling of the walls like sunburned skin.

it had been about 15 minutes since we arrived. Leanne couldn't wait to show me nashville. i couldn't wait to be shown.

on my right, she was smiling bright and white among the old yellowed photographs and lazy neon lights. the sun began to set and shown low and quiet through the front door casting shadows on the dirty tiled floor and showing the dust on the lazy neon lights.

in my left ear:

"I'm gonna pull my damned bus right outta this town."
the bartender put budweisers in front of both of us. his elbows looked like they were melting into the bar top.

"hey man."
"you got a cigarette?"

on my right she sat like bright and clean like carved from a roman statue. behind us the band began to play. the older ladies began to sway like older ladies do. everyone sang the words to the songs. except for the melting man on barstool on my left.

"played pedal steel for George Strait. until yesterday."
"we got a $10,000 fine at the hotel. now the tour's off."

by now he was on another budweiser and his grey teeth began to melt into his chin. it was getting harder and harder to understand him. but his mouth kept moving. the band played Dixie Land Delight. the sun show low through the front door and cast shadows of the swaying older ladies. everyone was singing every word to every song.

"hey man."
"got a cigarette?"

by the third beer he ordered the bartender grimaced and look apologetically at me. on my right leanne was smiling and waiting on our food to be delivered from across the street. she was singing every word to every song. now the dirty floor was covered in people dancing down the length of bar.

"you wanna kick some ass?"
"you and me. let's kick this town's ass."

now he was drinking my beer. leanne took it out of his hand. his legs were dripping down the chrome bar stool leg and his eyelids had fallen off his forehead and complete covered his eyes.

"hey ma."
"got a cigarette?"

the sun had set below the building across the street and the afternoon light had flattened out to warm orange glow. it floated in across the sunburned and peeling walls. on my right leanne was laughing and singing bright among dusty and yellowed bar. on my left the bouncer came and drug yesterdays pedal steel guitar player out the door. he was slumped over sound asleep like a dead houseplant wilting onto the tiled floor.

the bouncer helped him out the door into the pale orange light that crept over the rooftops across the street. i watched him stumble past the bar window and suddenly the people in fanny packs and nashville t-shirts standing in the door way all looked down the street and laughed. one boy held up his sony handy cam and began recording.

I walked to the front and looked down the street. the man had finally melted into a dusty drunk puddle, flat on his back in the middle of the sidewalk. and the tourists were there to take the pictures on their way into the bar.

There are two sides to country music. sometimes they both can be as close to you as a barstool on either side of you. as the band played "Friends in Low Places" i looked around at everyone. the whole bar was dancing and everyone was singing every word to every song. outside on Broadway, the sun shone on a drunken dusty puddle lying flat on his back alone. for some the romantic meaning is made by the song itself, and for others it is a mean reality made for others to sing and sway along to it. and usually the true meaning is removed by the delayed cycle of record labels and songwriters and producers and backing bands and studio sessions and multi-tracked overdubs and luck and a really good PR agent to get from the mean reality to the romantic radio friendly sing along song. but sometimes, the whole process can be seen all in one moment at 5:00 p.m. at Tootsie's Orchid Lounge in Nashville Tennessee.

*At 11:30 that night, we returned downtown. a Nashville city police officer had a 6 cell mag light shining into the bushes 1 block down from Tootsie's. the police officer was trying belligerently in vain to wake him up and send him and his bus out of town.

Posted by Todd Roeth at August 2, 2004 07:11 PM

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